In London, Flavors of India Without the Fuss

MORE than 15 years ago, the first “upscale” Indian restaurants began appearing in London , including the now-famous Tamarind , which opened in Mayfair. The occasion was notable: in a city filled with curry joints, here was a white-tablecloth operation with Michelin star aspirations. It was eclectic, exciting, expensive and successful — and yes, it got its star. It remains crowded and popular, and I don’t have an unkind word to say about it.

Still, it isn’t what I look for when I go to London. The great thing about the so-called “Indian” food scene here (I’m putting “Indian” in quotation marks because a more accurate term, I suppose, would be “subcontinental,” which would include food from Pakistan, and the disputed land of Kashmir , among other areas) is that you can find it in every neighborhood and it’s the genuine item. The white tablecloth spots are fine for people who are skittish about true subcontinental food. But those that offer the real deal are amazing, and frankly have more guts than those that cater to, well, a white-tablecloth clientele. And don’t assume that good ingredients are restricted to the pricey places; every restaurant discussed here uses high-quality meat and vegetables.

For New Yorkers, and even more so for people from other parts of the United States , the opportunity to eat fine, authentic “Indian” food does not come often. Yes, there are such places, but they often don’t last long, and, even more often, they stray from their roots in an attempt to cater to mainstream tastes. In London — to use a British term — brilliant choices abound. Here are four, more or less in order of my preference, though they are all very close. (One that did not quite make the cut, but which I will try again, is Malabar Junction , in Bloomsbury.

Lamb Curry Simple - News


In London, Flavors of India Without the Fuss
In London, Flavors of India Without the Fuss

Don't miss the dry meat curry — so-called because the “gravy” is cooked long enough so that the dish is nearly dry, but the flavors are reduced and concentrated to the point where the flavor is astonishingly intense and the lamb ultra-tender.



Travel ideas for 2012: Food haunts

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Easy rice cooker recipes

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Balti lamb curry
Balti lamb curry

Only six ingredients and one pot is all you need for delicious . What could be easier? Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add onion. Cook, stirring, for 5 minutes or until onion has softened. Add curry paste.




Lamb Curry Simple - Bookshelf

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